Starship Troopers - Mobile Infantry

Power Suits: Base coated in cheap flat black spray paint from Wal-Mart, drybrushed Delta Ceramcoat Rain Grey, then Quaker Grey on the jumpsuit. Drybrushed DC's Christmas Green then Leaf Green on the armored bits, helmet and backpack. The guns get a 40/60 mix of DC's Black and Metallic Silver (shooting to match Games Workshop's Chainmail paint). The faceplates start with DC's Metallic Silver, then Metallic 14K Gold on top. NCO's and Sargents don't have faceplates, so DC's Fleshtone on the face and they're good to go. For the base, DC's Spice Brown.

The NCO's transmitter is the center portion of the shockstick, just trimmed down to look like some sort of transmitter.

Tunnel Markers & Tunnel Entrances

Inspired by the SST demo at Cold Wars '05 where the Mongoose Infantry member had made a Tunnel Marker from spare bits and uninspired by the cardboard markers and templates included in the starter box led me to create my own Tunnel Markers and Tunnel Entrances.

Tunnel Marker: I started with 2 spare legs (you get 1 spare leg from a 2 Warrior sprue) and a 1" washer. Trimmed the ball joints to lie flat with the washer and then superglued the legs to the washer using Dollar Tree Gel Super Glue (3 tubes for $1). After that had set, I then spread wood filler, straight from the tub, onto the washer to make it look like that the legs were poking through the ground. I let it set overnight - mainly because I did this after dinner and before going to bed. The next day - a base coat of the cheap flat black spray paint from Wal-Mart, the usual treatment on the bug legs (see an earlier post on how I painted the Arachnid Warriors) and for the ground, drybrush Delta Ceramcoat Spice Brown and then a light drybrush of DC's Bambi Brown (you've gotta love the names of these colors).

Tunnel Entrance: In SST, a Tunnel Entrance & a Nest Entrance is 4" in diameter. Now a regular CD from AOL is just too big. At Michael's, I found 4" diameter wood plaques for a mere 50 cents each. So I bought about 10 of the things, and whipped up 10 entrances. I added straight wood filler around the edges to give it height. You'll have to go back and reform your tunnel walls 2-3 times as the filler sets, if you're working on 10 at the same time. You'll feel it start to get firm and then you'll know if you'll have to go back to it again or not, but do keep an eye on it. You certainly don't want to have "flat" tunnel entrances. After the wood filler sets, a base coat of cheap flatr black spray paint from Wal-Mart, a drybrush of DC's Spice Brown, followed by a light drybrush of DC's Bambi Brown around the edges of the entrance. Althought I have yet to do so, I'm going to add a spare bug leg or two to a few entrances to signify them as "Nest Entrances".

Arachnid Unit Markings

It can get confusing trying to figure out which bugs belong to which unit when there are 50 of them on the board. I've put markings on the heads to tell the units apart at a glance.

Hopper Bugs

Here's more pictures of the Hoppers

Starship Troopers - Arachnids

Here's what's I've painted up so far for the Arachnids: 9 Hoppers and 50 Warriors. 20 of those Warriors were painted by Steve Barrett. Those are certainly the better painted ones! He's very skilled and you can see it all of the figures he paints, plus he's retired - so he's got plenty of time to paint! Unlike me, who goes for the quickie paintjob to get it on the table to play with.

For the Warriors: base coated with the cheap flat black spray paint from Wal-Mart (ColorPlace is the brand), drybrushed Delta Ceramcoat Storm Grey all over the bug. Then, used DC's Bright Red on the claws, jaws, legs and top of the head. Also used DC's Bright Yellow for the stripes along the legs & jaws. I used the same yellow for unit markings on the bugs. I have yet to put a finish coat on these bugs, the humidity is too high in South Carolina now. I'll wait until the Fall.


For the Hoppers: base coated with the cheap flat black spray paint from Wal-Mart (less than a $1 a can), drybrushed Delta Ceramcoat Christmas Green (it's a nice dark green...I know, I hate the name too) all over the bug - wings too, then drybrushed DC's Leaf Green over that. Then, used DC's Bright Red on the claws & jaws. And for the wings, I drybrushed DC's Antique White. If I didn't want to get too close to the edge of the wing - I just left it and the green that I drybrushed on before keeps it looking halfway decent.

Hive Tyrant & Carnifex

I've actually had the Hive Tyrant somewhat put together, but never painted it until I got to South Carolina. I've had the thing for about 3-4 years, I think. Here's my quick tip - to get the wings to fit onto the shoulders of the tyrant, I didn't use "green stuff". Instead, I used 2-part epoxy putty that I got at the local Lowe's for $5. It sets fast, so you have to work quick, but it sure is cheaper.

Biovores & Lictors & Zoanthropes

As you can see, the Lictors & Zoanthropes are new additions. My older models didn't make it down to South Carolina during the move. I'll finish off those bases soon...

Tyranid Warriors & Ripper Swarms

Spinegaunts & Hormagaunts

32 Spinegaunts & 32 Hormagaunts, who could ask for anything more...

Tyranids & Genestealers

Here's the gist - I base coated everything in white and then used Games Workshop's blue inks for the most part. I say inks, because back then GW had a nice turquoise. It made it easy to get the Rouge Trader "3 Color" requirement. Unfortunately, GW has stopped making the turquoise ink. The occasional tounge or tentacle got pink instead. As a finish coat, Minwax PolyShades Classic Oak Satin #370 was brushed on.





These are old school Genestealers from the Space Hulk boardgame. I've got 24 of these babies.

Purpose

I find that as I'm growing older, I'm beginning to forget things... like what color of paint I used for a piece of clothing on a figure. Thus, I'm hoping to use this blog as a resource for myself and if if helps others...so be it!